So you want a new processor. Go through the list in order to check all of your hardware for compatibility—if you see discrepancies, you might need to replace those pieces, too.
This is a complex question, and probably more than we can explain in this guide. Generally, faster processors and more processing cores means better performance and higher prices. If you can afford it, you want to select the CPUs from the latest generation—they tend to be refreshed on a cycle slightly less than once a year. Core i7 and i9 are higher-end for performance enthusiasts or workstation machines, while Core i3, Pentium, and Celeron chips are for budget builds.
On the AMD side, the new Ryzen series offers a surprising range of performance and prices. The Ryzen 3 and Ryzen 5 families are good middle-of-the-road picks, some of which offer integrated Radeon graphics for mid-range gaming capabilities without a separate graphics card. Ryzen 7 and the top-tier Ryzen Threadripper series are for performance junkies. So, if your computer is only a few years old, you might be able to upgrade to a more powerful CPU that uses the same socket.
The first compatibility check for the CPU socket is the brand. Intel is the clear market leader, but AMD tends to offer similar performance at slightly lower price levels. The size of the motherboard depends mostly upon your case. Simple, right?
No matter what size your case is, you can probably find a motherboard that fits its dimensions and your needs. Modern cases include plenty of mounting spots for motherboards that are smaller than their maximum size. Motherboards also have maximum RAM capacities and speeds.
So a full-sized motherboard with four slots and a 32GB maximum capacity can accept 8GB of RAM per slot, but a smaller motherboard with only two slots and the same maximum will need 16GB of RAM in each slot to reach it. Of course, you can go for lower RAM capacities to save some money and you might not need as much as you think you do. This is for your graphics card. The different multi-card systems SLI and Crossfire also require specific support for their standards from the motherboard manufacturer.
Other expansion slots can be used for more general applications, like Wi-Fi cards, sound cards, extra USB slots, and so on. What you need depends on what your current system uses, and what you want. To cover yourself at a minimum, make sure that any hardware installed on your current system has a place to go on your new motherboard.
If your old PC has a separate sound card and Wi-Fi card, but the new motherboard has those features built in, you might not need the extra slots for them. The new M. Other motherboard hardware is dependent on either the components that you currently have, or the ones you want. Good question. There are two more variables to consider here: the main motherboard power cable and the CPU power cable. Motherboard power cables come in 20 pin and 24 pin varieties. Most modern power supplies have a cable that terminates in a 20 pin connector, but features an additional 4 pin connector to accommodate the 24 pin slots.
Depending on the design of your CPU and its power requirements, these can come in 4 pin and 8 pin designs. Some high-performance sockets need separate 8 pin and 4 pin cables for a total of Follow the steps below.
If your home is particularly static-prone, you might want to use an anti-static bracelet. A cup or bowl is also handy for holding loose screws. First, unplug all the power and data cables from your PC and move it to your workspace. Remove the screws holding the left-side access panel from the case—these are on the back of the machine, screwed into the edge. You can then slide the access panel off and set it aside. If your case is a small or unusual design, consult the manual for precise instructions.
Set the PC on its side, with the motherboard facing up. You should be able to look down at the motherboard with all its various ports and connections.
The CPU cooler is the large gadget with a big piece of metal the heat sink and one or more fans attached to it. For our Intel stock cooler, this is relatively simple: we just turn the thumbscrews at all four corners, and then lift it off. If you ask online, you're going to get a lot of opinions about the "best" way to apply thermal paste. Drawing an X, making a cross, spreading it in advance, letting gravity do the work — there are plenty of methods, and some evidence in favor of and against each one.
The short version is that unless you're building some kind of supercharged, overclocked powerhouse, how you apply thermal paste is not going to make or break the machine. I personally went with the "grain of rice" method, and made a very small ball right in the center of the processor. The heatsink — and the heat of the processor itself — should take care of spreading it over time.
Basically, when it comes to thermal paste, less is more, and you can always redo it if you find that your computer is running way too hot. It's the most open-ended part of the procedure, but it's not the hardest, unless you drive yourself crazy over it.
Whatever you did to take the heatsink or fan out, reverse the process. Screw everything back in tightly, but not so tightly that it will bend or break the cooling unit's structure. You're done! Reconnect your computer to its power source, boot it up, and makes sure everything is working properly.
Just follow the prompts, then let the computer restart. Since thermal paste spreads and settles by the application of heat, you'll want to run your computer for a few hours when you get a chance. You should do something taxing, like edit videos or play a demanding game, and ensure that the CPU's heat stays within acceptable parameters.
I like the Intel XTU software for this, but there are other options, too. If it doesn't, there are ways to mitigate your heat output, such cleaning out the fans, or investing in better cooling options. Marshall Honorof is a senior editor for Tom's Guide, overseeing the site's coverage of gaming hardware and software. He comes from a science writing background, having studied paleomammalogy, biological anthropology, and the history of science and technology.
After hours, you can find him practicing taekwondo or doing deep dives on classic sci-fi. If you built your PC from scratch, then upgrading your central processing unit aka processor, or CPU shouldn't present too much of a challenge — just reverse the steps you used to install it.
Marshall Honorof. Remove the processor without touching the pins on the socket or processor as this can bend the pins If you plan to reuse the processor, remove the old thermal paste using isopropyl alcohol. Locate the corner of the CPU socket marked with a triangle and line it up to match the corner of the new processor with the triangle Gently drop the new processor into the CPU socket Lower the retention arm of the socket to lock the processor into place.
Reattach the side panel by placing the screws back in the original location to finish up. Did you make this project? It only works with the Series LGA motherboards. First things first, you cannot put any CPU you want into your motherboard. If you are using an older motherboard, for example, a Z97 that uses the LGA socket, then you need to check what the best CPU is that your motherboard supports. Try to find your specific model and check the CPU compatibility list to see what CPUs can be used with your motherboard.
Some motherboards add support for a CPU generation that came out long after the motherboard did, but they need a newer BIOS to run them. Always do thorough research before updating and make a backup of your BIOS. It can also happen that a motherboard cannot support a CPU even from the same generation as the one you have due to power consumption.
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